| Kalash Valley, Pakistan |
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| LOCATION |
The Kalash valleys of Chitral are located in the southern gorges of the Hindu Kush mountain range in Pakistan's Northwest Frontier Province. The area shares a 380-km border with Afghanistan in the north and west, and the Central Asian states of Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and Kirghizistan are easily accessible from the area. To the east lies Gilgit, from where one can reach China's Xinjiang Autonomous Region along the legendary Karakoram Highway. |
| HOW TO GET THERE |
During summers from May till November the Kalash valleys of Chitral are accessible from Peshawar and Gilgit over the |
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| Lawari pass 3118m and Shandur pass 3735m. The distance from Peshawar is 365 km and from Gilgit 385 km, a 12-hour journey in either case. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) operates daily flights from Peshawar to Chitral, weather permitting. From Chitral town it takes one hour of jeep drive to access any of the three Kalash valleys located at a distance of 25 Km. |
THE ENDANGERED KALASH
The Kalash are one of the world's endangered minority communities. The Kalash population decreased from 10,000 in 1951 to 3,700 in 1998, motivating conservation experts, development workers and anthropologists to work to preserve and protect the Kalash culture. |
ORIGIN OF KALASH
There are three theories about the origin of the Kalash. Some historians believe the Kalash are descendants of the soldiers of Alexander the Great. Other historians say the Kalash are indigenous to Asia and come from what is now the Nuristan area of Afghanistan. Other historians say the Kalash ancestors migrated to Afghanistan from a distant place in South Asia, which the Kalash call "Tsiyam" in their folk songs and epics. However, it is established that the Kalash migrated to Chitral from Afghanistan in the 2nd century B.C. By the 10th century A.D., the Kalash ruled a large part of present-day Chitral. Razhawai, Cheo, Bala Sing and Nagar Chao were famous Kalash rulers in the 12th |
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| through 14th centuries A.D. Their fellow tribesmen in Afghanistan were known as Red Kafirs. The thriving Kalash culture began to fall in 1320 A.D. when Shah Nadir Raees subjugated and converted the people to Islam. The villages of Drosh, Sweer, Kalkatak, Beori, Ashurate, Shishi, Jinjirate and adjacent valleys in southern Chitral were last Kalash villages subjected to mass conversion in the 14th century. The Kalash were living in just three Chitral valleys, Bambourate, Rumbur and Birir, by the time Amir of Afghanistan forcefully converted to Islam the Red Kafirs on the other side of the border in 1893. Villages of the converted Red Kafirs in Chitral are known as Sheikhanandeh – the village of converted ones. The Kalash, as well as the Sheikh community, are popular with domestic and foreign tourists because of their unique culture. The Kalash area is a hub of eco- tourism activities. With the opening of the Lawari tunnel on the road to Peshawar and the proposed road to Tajikistan, the Kalash and Chitral will be linked with the cultural centers of Pakistan, Afghanistan and Central Asia by all-weather land routes. |
KALASH CULTURE
The Kalash language is called Kalasha which is an archaic type of Indo- European language (Dardic subgroup). The language is called Kalasha and it has a rich tradition of folklore, epics, love songs and idioms demonstrating a high standard of indigenous wisdom and human experience. This knowledge is believed to be at the verge of extinction. The new generation of Kalash does not know much about their non-material culture and heritage.
The Kalasha follow a Polytheist religion based on ancestor worship, as well as 12 gods and goddesses dominated by the main god, Mahandeo.Traditional female dress which includes a black robe, an embroidered long cap decorated |
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with cowrie shells, ornaments and beads. This style of dress is still popular among local women despite the availability of a variety of modern clothes.
The Kalash religion is based on myths and superstitions that relate to the relationship between the human soul and the universe. This relationship, according to Kalash mythology, needs its manifestation in music and dance, which also contribute to the pleasure of gods and goddesses. In their festivals music and dance are performed not as an entertainment item, but as a religious ritual.
The Kalash celebrate four major festivals commemorating seasonal change and significant events in agro-pastoral life. These festivals are Joshi or Chilimjusht, Uchal, Phoo and Chowmos. The Kalash celebrate these festivals by offering sacrifices on altars, cooking traditional meals and dancing to traditional music during the week-long events.
The Kalash seclude women during monthly periods and pregnancies by confining them to a place called Bashali. Each Kalash village has a Bashali outside the settlement. The women are allowed to work in the fields but are not allowed to go home or inside the village. They are considered untouchable and impure during their time in the Bashali.
During the festivals they sacrifice animals at altars to please gods and goddesses. This religious ritual is performed with high regard for the supernatural beings, according to the Kalash mythology.
The Betaan or Shaman plays an important role in the Kalash culture. He makes prophecies during religious rituals. The Betaan seeks the help of fairies to make prophecies with regard to the weather, crops, livestock and other agro-pastoral activities, including prospects for the coming year.
An important practice in Kalash mythology is the close observation of the Kalash astronomers at the beginning of the new year in December. The Kalash believe that a new sun is born on Dec 21 and that the time and style of the new sun affects the flora and fauna of the land.
Kalash houses and monuments show that the community has a rich background of skills in various arts and crafts, especially woodwork and woolen products. Effigies and paintings of human and animal figures in Kalash monuments are a testimony to their skill.
The Kalash have unique funeral rituals. According to their beliefs, the departed soul was excited to leave the body and meet other souls after a long separation. The Kalash do not mourn their loved ones when they die. Instead, they celebrate the death by singing and dancing.
KALASH FESTIVALS
JOSHI or CHILIMJUSHT
The spring festival is celebrated from May 13-16 every year. The festival seeks the blessings of gods and goddesses for the safety of the herds and crops of the Kalash community.
UTCHAL
The summer festival is celebrated from Aug 18-21 every year. The festival commemorates the summer season and the abundance of dairy products in the summer pastures.
PHOO
The autumn festival is celebrated around mid October every year depending each year on the ripening of the crops and fruits. The festival also celebrates the return of livestock herds from the summer pastures.
CHAUMOS OR CHITIRMAS
The winter festival is celebrated from Dec. 8 -21 every year. This is the most important Kalash festival. New clothes are arranged for each family member on the eve of the festival. The grand Kalash god, Mahandeo, is offered sacrifices.
ROT NOT
This is a lesser-known festival in which young girls and boys meet in a special place, called Charsu in Brun and Krakal in Bumboret & Rumbur valley, to sing and dance in order to console loving couples. This continues for two months (June 21 – Aug. 21) and culminates at the Uchal festival. |
IMPORTANT SITES
BRUN
A village in Bumboret valley famous for Jastakan and Charsu, dancing halls for festivities. There is also an interesting three-hour walk along the irrigation channel.
BATRIK
A historic place in Bumboret known as the capital of the Kalash ruler Razhawai (10th century A.D.) Also known as a sacred place of the grand Kalash god, Mahandeo.
KRAKAL
Kalash hamlet in Bumboret famous for its dancing hall and Madokjal (cemetery). Also known for a sacred cedar (Deodar) tree. Traditional Kalash charity is distributed under |
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the shade of this tree.
KALASH GROM
A hamlet in Rumbur valley, known for its oldest origin and picturesque view.
BALANGURO
A hamlet in Rumbur valley known for its cultural elements and resource persons for anthropologists. Has been home to various researchers.
ACHOLGA
An Alpine forest in Rumbur valley famous for its hot springs and walking trails.
GAZ KURO
A famous hamlet of Kalash in Birir valley.
GURUL
A historic place in Birir valley famous for cultural sites and a dancing hall.
ASPAR
A scenic village in Birir valley famous for its beauty.
SHEIKHANANDEH
The name means "village of the converted." Residents are the descendants of the Red Kafirs who migrated from Nuristan /Afghanistan in the late 1890s. These villages of now-Muslim Kalash are situated at the end of all three Kalash valleys Bumboret, Birir and Rumbur. Their way of life, architecture, traditional culture and language are remnants of the former Red Kafir traditions from Afghanistan.
TEMPLES AND PLACES OF SPECIAL RESPECT
The Kalash holy places are widely respected by all. Tourists are requested to move around quietly while visiting these places.
MALOSH
Holy places where sacrifices are offered. These places are situated on the outskirts of a village. Some famous Malosh sites are in Batrik, Krakal, Birir, Rumbur and Gromun.
JASTAKAN
This is a large hall decorated with effigies and animal figures. Jastakan are holy places where rituals are performed at the times of birth, death and festivals.
BASHALI
The Kalash house for secluded women are situated near watercourses in each village and are off limit for men.
MADOKJAL
This is a Kalash graveyard. In the past, dead bodies were put in wooden boxes and placed in open air. In recent years, the Kalash have started burying coffins.
CHARSU
A dancing place where young couples gather to perform a dance in commemoration of their love.
KALASH HANDICRAFTS
Due to their proximity to nature, the Kalash are fond of natural colors in handicrafts. Skills in spinning and weaving are exhibited in Palesk (rugs), Qalin (carpets), Chehari (belts) and Copesi (headgear).
KALASH ARCHITECTURE
Kalash architecture is a unique mixture of ancient wooden craft and medieval traditions of figure art. Multi-storied Kalash buildings present a spectacular view of beautifully carved wooden pillars and beams decorated with unmatchable human and animal figures and effigies. Each one depicts certain myths and superstitions.
KALASH CULTURE CENTRE
The Kalash Culture Center in Brun, Bumboret valley, is where folk history, culture and civilization of the Kalash will be preserved under one roof. It is an ethnological museum of the Kalash community, initiated and facilitated by the citizens of Greece. It is planned to open for visitors in 2006.
THE LEGENDARY LAKES
BAHUK: THE SACRED LAKE
Bahuk, the sacred lake of the Kalash ancestors, lies between the two picturesque Kalash valleys of Bumboret and Rumbur. The turquoise-hued glacier lake is situated at 4000m amongst an amphitheater of jagged peaks with a good view of Tirich Mir 7708m to the west. The Kalash believe that after their death, their souls go to Bahuk Lake. The area is famous amongst both the Kalash and the Muslim Kho community as the resting place of airies. The surrounding areas are the summer pastures of the Kalash community and illagers from Ayun. The area also has some magnificent cedars some 1,200 years old.
There are lovely treks from both Bumboret and Rumbur linking different valleys in the region where you can see shepherd settlements and a variety of fauna and flora. A trail has been developed up to Bahuk Lake for trekkers. From Bumboret the journey to the lake and back takes five days.
LAKE AWAZAK
The lake is southwest of Bumboret valley, on the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan. Its water flows into the Bashgal valley in the Nuristan. Locals say it takes a quick trekker 12 hours to reach the lake, but for the average tourist it will take much longer. Considerable superstitions are associated with the lake. It is believed that when an ill-fortuned person looks into the lake, the lake looks blood-red, likely a bad omen illustrating his or her death. The flora around the lake attracts shepherds, who bring their herds up to the lake for grazing.
LAKE SHAWAL
This lake is south of Bumboret valley. High mountains surround the lake fed by a glacier nearby. From the lake, a route leads into the Nuristan area of Afghanistan. Shepherds bring their herds to the pasture around the lake.
WALKING TRAILS
BAMBOURATE WALKING TRAILS
There are a number of walking trails on both sides of the stream in Bumburet. To walk the length of the valley Anish to Krakal would take you three hours. Several villages lie along this trail. The route gives you a chance to witness the Kalash day-to-day activities, such as watering and weeding crops and chatting in the orchards. The trail also passes caves that were believed to be Kalash hideouts in case of an enemy attack. On route is a spring important to Kalash, who say its waters cure many ailments.
BIRIR WALKING TRAIL
This trail starts from the government guesthouse at village Gurul. A traditional center of the Kalash community, the Jastakan, is located in the village. The trail passes through a dense wood of oaks to reach the villages of Aspar and Beshal -- two villages where the Kalash and the now-Muslim Kalash live side-by-side in harmony. The trail ends at Biyal, where there is another old Jastakan. From Biyal, one can view the majestic snow-clad peak of Acharkandur to the west. A majestic glacier view adds beauty to the valley.
RUMBUR WALKING TRAIL
The three-hour trail starts from the village of Grom on the left side of the jeep road and follows the face of a steep slope through a dense oak forest. In Grom is a Kalash graveyard with wooden effigies on the graves symbolizing the importance and leadership of the deceased. Close by is the dancing place and higher up the sacrifice place, along with the sacred stone and effigies of goats and humans around the altar. The trail passes through the Kalash villages of Balanguru, Kalashgrom and Palo.
REGISTRATION OF FOREIGNERS
On arrival in Chitral, foreign visitors have to register their names and particulars with the local authorities.
HEALTH CARE FACILITIES
There is a Basic Health Unit (BHU) in Bomburet for tertiary healthcare. First Aid Post/Designation is available in Rumbur and Birir. More adequate health facilities are available in nearby Ayun and Broz and in Chitral town.
CODE OF ETHICS FOR VISITORS TO THE KALASH VALLEYS
- Before you visit the Kalash valley, educate yourself about local customs and culture, we at AMG can help with this.
- The Kalash are friendly, hospitable and gentle. Unlike other villages in Pakistan, the womenfolk in the Kalash valleys are more visible. Their traditional values must be respected by visitors.
- Do not gawk at the Kalash consider how you feel when you are stared at during your travels.
- Always ask permission before photographing people. Do not pay to take photographs.
Do not disturb the Kalash working in fields or in the privacy of the Bashali (the women's house of seclusion).
- Do not walk into houses and temples or participate in dances or festivals without being invited.
- Buying local products benefits the local economy, but buying antiques and artifacts robs the local culture.
- All meadows are preserved for animal fodder. Avoid trampling them, and do not camp without permission. Avoid parking vehicles in fields.
- Do not use streams for washing or cleaning. Keep all pollutants, even biodegradable ones, away from streams. Use toilets wherever available. Where not available, stay at least 30 meters from streams.
- Do not preach any religion or seek to convert.
- The Kalash get very little economic benefit from tourism, use Kalash guides, hotels and pay for any space that you utilize.
- Remember, as you leave this area you leave behind an image of yourself. Make life welcoming for future visitors by not leaving any litter behind.
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